Today I’ll be showing you how to remove plaster from brick walls not quite as simple as you might think.
Now you can use a normal hammer and bolster.
A bolster as a chisel like tool, pretty heavy-duty chisel.
I opted to use a quicker method, a much quicker method which was an SDS drill and a wide chisel bit on the end of it the SDS drill has the capability to just use the hammer action instead of turning so when you’ve got a chisel bit on the end of that you can just use it to hammer away at the plaster.
It makes the job so much easier I’ll just go now quickly to show you give you a quick demonstration of me using the SDS drill.
Ok so, SDS drill, bolster on the end, just on hammer action, not rotate definitely you want a mask because it gets pretty dusty, definitely ear defenders, probably have to wear goggle but that’s optional, and I’ll give you a quick demonstration.
Okay so after that quick demonstration I’ll just got on with it so if I get the time lapse going hopefully there, you can see I’m not actually working this quickly but the whole course this time lapse is I think it’s about an hour and a half and I’ve got just over half the room done.
If we used a hammer and bolster, probably an extra couple of hours I should think.
Plus maybe scuffed hands and aching muscles.
Okay so I really want to reinforce a point about using an SDS drill for this, you don’t have to buy one, you can high one from your local hire depot and I know hire station do them.
If you did buy one it’ll cost you probably about 100 pounds for a very good one and what I use is a Bosch professional, I can’t remember the model number, but it’s well worth the money.
Just to really reinforce the point I’m just going to do a quick comparison of using the SDS drill with the chisel bit versus the usual hammer and bolster method.
Now, hammer and bolster.
Okay, you get my point? So much quicker so much easier.
Okay so I hope that really reinforces the point about using an SDS drill.
How it can save your hands from being scuffed using the hammer, it saves you a lot of time and to be honest it does do a better job of removing the plaster.
So while I get this time lapse on the go, this is the second half of the room, this half took me another hour again with a hammer bolster you’re probably talking an extra couple of hours on top of that.
Now, I hope that’s finished.
The next thing I want to really point out is there’s a couple of things to watch out for, such as electrical cables that are usually hidden within the plaster, not embedded in the wall, so I’ll just skip to another video I’ll just make that clear for you.
If you look here, you can see we got the socket and the trunking, this is the metal plate that goes over the wire, it goes down to the socket.
It’s not actually buried in the wall, quite common, it’s buried in the plaster work.
Obviously, when you’re going along at 50 miles an hour with the SDS, or even just a hammer bolster, you can quite easy hook under that and then get the wire.
It will obviously, with that metal conductor being a bolster, will transfer electricity to you.
So it’s something to watch out for.
Usually, in most most cases, if it’s done properly the trunking and the wire should go vertically up from the socket.
Don’t rely on that at all, in a lot of cases they go at a slight angle.
So this is the light switch, it goes off at an angles here.
If you haven’t taken the plaster off above the light switch, but you are starting from say ceiling level, and you’re going along you think well it’s fine because it’s going vertically up from the light socket.
You’ll be going along here, thinking you’re okay.
It’s not quite the case.
The other thing to watch out for is it’s not these things are not always above sockets.
To my surprise, I came across this one here.
There is no socket here.
Now I nearly demolished it there’s a bit of a bit in there where I caught it, and that’s how I realised it was there.
So maybe a detector would be a good idea.
Now, the other thing to think about as well is, when we come to replastering the wall, I’m going to be putting some sort of shelves up and things like that It’s a good idea to make a note of where the trunking is, especially if it’s at an angle.
So what I’ll do is I’ll do as I usually do with most things a CAD drawing something to save on a computer, you don’t have to keep in a hardcopy, then I’ll just mark positions on all the walls of all the trunking and so that when I come to put up shelves and things like that I’ll just quickly refer to that and I’ll know exactly where the trunking is and where the electrical cables are.
Okay, so a really good tip is obviously what you want to achieve is a flat wall so you don’t want any little lumps and bumps of plaster left over when it comes to putting the plaster board on the wall or if you’re plastering straight onto the wall any lumps and bumps we’re just getting the way.
The best way to do this is, as you are chiseling it off, just keep an eye on the wall.
If you see any lumps and bumps, take them off, try not to think, oh well I’ll just get the majority of it with the SDS and then go around later on with the hammer and chisel to get those little bits off.
Yes that’s great, but you might as well, as your chipping the plaster off, just get as much as you can that way there’s less chance of missing those lumps and bumps later on which will cause you a headache when it comes to putting the plasterboard on.