Stone Sidewalk

DIY: How To Build A Stone Sidewalk

Garden paths are a functional element of a garden plot. In addition, garden paths are an aesthetic part of the outdoor area. Widespread material for creating a path is stone.

It is strong and durable, easy to care for and wear-resistant. Let’s take a closer look at how to make paths from stone with your own hands.

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Varieties of garden paths

Neighborhood paths are divided into several types. They differ in the way the path is created, as well as in the types of materials used in the work.

  • Pathways-trails. Created in a natural way in places where people walk most often. The minus of such a path in the absence of reinforcement, the soil is washed away by rain, the path becomes dirty and impassable. To improve the appearance of the path, lay a brick, stone, slate or any other fixing material along its edges.
  • Gravel paths. A simple and quick way to create a sturdy walkway that is unaffected by the weather. Start by removing the top layer of earth to a depth of 10 cm. Make a layer of geotextile to prevent weeds from germinating. Place a border around the edges. Backfill the entire area with pebbles, sand, expanded clay. Variety the appearance of the path with natural stones.
  • Concrete paths. Use this type of pathway in those places where you plan a heavy load (the road to the garage, or from the gate to the house door, the most frequently used pathway). Lay the chosen track material on the prepared concrete screed. Raised 5-10 cm from the ground, the path will remain clean during rain and bad weather.

Paving slab walkway

The paving slab walkway looks neat, the material is durable. Before starting work, consider the colors of the paving slabs and the desired pattern.

  • Start laying the path by marking it out. Use stakes and stretched twine for this work. Use a tape measure to mark the boundaries of the future path.
  • Remove the top layer of soil, lay a geotextile, fill the base with concrete.
  • Pour a layer of cement mixed with sand on the dry screed.
    Smooth the surface with a rake.
  • Lay the tiles by pushing the blocks tightly together. The gap between the tiles is no more than 2 mm. Tamp down each block with a wooden mallet.
    У Lay all the solid blocks and make sure they are level. Remove any unevenness with a mallet.
  • Lay out the side missing pieces, install the curb. Use cement mortar to fix it in place.
  • Backfill the resulting gaps between the tiles with a mixture of cement and sand, fill the path with water. Repeat the procedure in places where the cement mixture sags.

The track is ready, exclude the load for the next 2-3 days.

Natural stone walkway

The technology of laying a natural stone path is similar to paving, but there are a number of features, which I will talk about next. Remember the three rules for laying a stone walkway.

  • Make the path at an elevation and a slight angle to the edges to avoid water accumulation. 4-5 cm in height, and a slope angle of 3 degrees is enough;
  • Do not neglect the curb, otherwise the path will sprawl sideways;
  • Choose non-slippery rocks, so the path does not become a skating rink after the rain. And also for the path will not suit the shell rock and limestone, they quickly deteriorate and are washed away by rain.

The procedure is carried out in several stages.

  • Prepare the base, dig a trench of the required size.
  • Lay a geotextile. On top pour a layer of pebbles for drainage, complete the preparation with a layer of sand.
  • Put stones on the sand, tamping with a rubber mallet. When the laid out area reaches 3-4 m – work the cracks. To fill the gaps, use sand-cement mortar, previously diluted to a semi-liquid state.
  • To strengthen the path and increase its service life, replace the base for laying the stones with concrete mortar. Pour the mortar into the trench, lay the stones, leveling with a rubber mallet. Fill the gaps with sand-cement mortar.

There is a non-cemented method of laying the path. Its main difference is the use of sand to grout the gaps between the stones. Such paths are beautiful and neat, and allow you to save capital investment.

Creating a pathway with your own hands is a creative process. Show your imagination, make the paths unique and bright. And observance of technology will allow you to extend the life of the track up to 10-15 years.



Remove Plaster

Remove Plaster From Brick Walls

Today I’ll be showing you how to remove plaster from brick walls not quite as simple as you might think.

Now you can use a normal hammer and bolster.

A bolster as a chisel like tool, pretty heavy-duty chisel.

I opted to use a quicker method, a much quicker method which was an SDS drill and a wide chisel bit on the end of it the SDS drill has the capability to just use the hammer action instead of turning so when you’ve got a chisel bit on the end of that you can just use it to hammer away at the plaster.

It makes the job so much easier I’ll just go now quickly to show you give you a quick demonstration of me using the SDS drill.

Ok so, SDS drill, bolster on the end, just on hammer action, not rotate definitely you want a mask because it gets pretty dusty, definitely ear defenders, probably have to wear goggle but that’s optional, and I’ll give you a quick demonstration.

Okay so after that quick demonstration I’ll just got on with it so if I get the time lapse going hopefully there, you can see I’m not actually working this quickly but the whole course this time lapse is I think it’s about an hour and a half and I’ve got just over half the room done.

If we used a hammer and bolster, probably an extra couple of hours I should think.

Plus maybe scuffed hands and aching muscles.

Okay so I really want to reinforce a point about using an SDS drill for this, you don’t have to buy one, you can high one from your local hire depot and I know hire station do them.

If you did buy one it’ll cost you probably about 100 pounds for a very good one and what I use is a Bosch professional, I can’t remember the model number, but it’s well worth the money.

Just to really reinforce the point I’m just going to do a quick comparison of using the SDS drill with the chisel bit versus the usual hammer and bolster method.

Now, hammer and bolster.

Okay, you get my point? So much quicker so much easier.

Okay so I hope that really reinforces the point about using an SDS drill.

How it can save your hands from being scuffed using the hammer, it saves you a lot of time and to be honest it does do a better job of removing the plaster.

So while I get this time lapse on the go, this is the second half of the room, this half took me another hour again with a hammer bolster you’re probably talking an extra couple of hours on top of that.

Now, I hope that’s finished.

The next thing I want to really point out is there’s a couple of things to watch out for, such as electrical cables that are usually hidden within the plaster, not embedded in the wall, so I’ll just skip to another video I’ll just make that clear for you.

If you look here, you can see we got the socket and the trunking, this is the metal plate that goes over the wire, it goes down to the socket.

It’s not actually buried in the wall, quite common, it’s buried in the plaster work.

Obviously, when you’re going along at 50 miles an hour with the SDS, or even just a hammer bolster, you can quite easy hook under that and then get the wire.

It will obviously, with that metal conductor being a bolster, will transfer electricity to you.

So it’s something to watch out for.

Usually, in most most cases, if it’s done properly the trunking and the wire should go vertically up from the socket.

Don’t rely on that at all, in a lot of cases they go at a slight angle.

So this is the light switch, it goes off at an angles here.

If you haven’t taken the plaster off above the light switch, but you are starting from say ceiling level, and you’re going along you think well it’s fine because it’s going vertically up from the light socket.

You’ll be going along here, thinking you’re okay.

It’s not quite the case.

The other thing to watch out for is it’s not these things are not always above sockets.

To my surprise, I came across this one here.

There is no socket here.

Now I nearly demolished it there’s a bit of a bit in there where I caught it, and that’s how I realised it was there.

So maybe a detector would be a good idea.

Now, the other thing to think about as well is, when we come to replastering the wall, I’m going to be putting some sort of shelves up and things like that It’s a good idea to make a note of where the trunking is, especially if it’s at an angle.

So what I’ll do is I’ll do as I usually do with most things a CAD drawing something to save on a computer, you don’t have to keep in a hardcopy, then I’ll just mark positions on all the walls of all the trunking and so that when I come to put up shelves and things like that I’ll just quickly refer to that and I’ll know exactly where the trunking is and where the electrical cables are.

Okay, so a really good tip is obviously what you want to achieve is a flat wall so you don’t want any little lumps and bumps of plaster left over when it comes to putting the plaster board on the wall or if you’re plastering straight onto the wall any lumps and bumps we’re just getting the way.

The best way to do this is, as you are chiseling it off, just keep an eye on the wall.

If you see any lumps and bumps, take them off, try not to think, oh well I’ll just get the majority of it with the SDS and then go around later on with the hammer and chisel to get those little bits off.

Yes that’s great, but you might as well, as your chipping the plaster off, just get as much as you can that way there’s less chance of missing those lumps and bumps later on which will cause you a headache when it comes to putting the plasterboard on.